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Too Small?
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Nothing
ensures a recipe's success as much as using farm-fresh ingredients.
Ramps are pictured above.
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Southland Farmers' Markets Association
Recipes
Zucchini: No Surrender
By Michelle Scicolone
Michele Scicolone is the author of Italian Holiday Cooking
published by William Morrow.
[Reprinted with permission of the author and The Washington Post.]
When I moved to the suburbs years ago, newcomers like me were jokingly
advised not to leave our car windows open on a summer night. If we did,
we should be prepared for the consequences. Some backyard gardener, blessed
with too much of a good thing, might leave us an anonymous gifta
sack full of overgrown zucchini.
Personally, I can never have too many zucchini, as long
as they are fresh, crisp and, most of all small. The best zucchini are
glossy with bright skin and firm flesh. They smaller ones seem to have
the most flavor too. Enormous zucchini make useful doorstops and win prizes
at state fairs but are not very interesting for eating.
Zucchini in all its varieties and other summer squashes have so many culinary
uses it is hard to decide how to cook them. They can be baked, fried,
sautéed, braised, stewed, stuffed and grilled. They are good in
soups, pasta sauces, frittatas and stir-fries and even raw in salads or
with dips. Grated, they make tasty muffins and quick breads. (Remember
always scrub zucchini with a stiff vegetable brush to remove any grit
that may be embedded in the skins.)
When zucchini are at their best, you can count on the basil to be peaking
too. One of my favorite summer soups is a simple version of pistou, a
vegetable-based soup common along the French and Italian Rivieras. When
I stir in a big helping of fresh pesto at the end, the hot soup releases
the aromas of the garlic and basil, and their perfume fills the air. On
hot summer days, I serve pistou warm, not hot, with a loaf of good bread.
Or I use zucchini in a tian, a dish of sliced vegetables typical of Southern
France. Some cooks finish the tian with eggs, making a kind of baked omelet,
but I usually just sprinkle it with cheese. A tian is perfect for picnics
too and even tastes good or better the next day.
I have been making zucchini sticks sautéed with garlic and herbs
for years as a side dish though lately I have found that it makes tasty
bruschetta that I can serve as an appetizer or lunch dish. I also serve
it with poached eggs and grilled sausages for brunch or toss it with some
freshly cooked penne pasta for dinner.
My final zucchini suggestions: a carpaccio that I serve as
a salad, lunch or appetizer. The vegetables are sliced as thin as possible,
about 1 millimeter thick, using a mandoline slicer or food processor and
tossed with a dressing of fresh lemon juice and extra-virgin olive oil.
Thin curls of Parmigiano Reggiano complete the dish.
Armed with these recipes, you may want to risk leaving you car windows
open at night.
Zucchini Pesto Soup
(4 to 6 servings)
If you prefer a creamier soup, cool the soup slightly, then puree it in
patches prior to serving.
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium onions, chopped
4 dams zucchini (about 1 1/4 lb. total), scrubbed and cut into 1/2-inch
dice
3 medium waxy potatoes, peeled and cut into about 1-inch dice
2 cups chicken stock or broth
4 cups water
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
3/4 cup spaghetti broken into 1-inch pieces
2 to 3 large garlic cloves, peeled
1/2 cup lightly packed basil
1/4 cup lightly packed flat-leaf parsley leaves
1/2 cup (about 2 oz) grated Parmesan cheese, preferably Parmigiano-Reggiano,
plush additional for garnish
2 to 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
In a large pot over medium heat, heat the 3 tablespoons olive oil.
Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and golden,
about 15 minutes. Add the zucchini and potatoes and cook, stirring occasionally,
for 10 minutes. Add the stock or broth and water, increase the heat to
medium-high and bring the liquid to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium-low
and simmer, uncovered for 30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste,
add the spaghetti and simmer until the pasta is cooked through, about
10 minutes.
Meanwhile in a food processor, process the garlic, basil and parsley until
finely chopped. Add the cheese and pulse to combine. Processing constantly,
slowly add the extra-virgin olive oil in a steady steam and process until
the mixture forms a thick paste. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Scrape the pesto into a large bowl.
Carefully pour about 1 cup of the soup into the pesto and stir vigorously
to combine. Return the soup-pesto mixture to the remaining soup in the
pot and stir to combine. Remove from the heat, cover and set aside to
rest for 5 minutes. Taste and season accordingly.
To serve, ladle the soup into individuals bowls and garnish with additional
cheese.
Per serving (based on 6 servings): 304 calories, 10
gm protein, 33 gm carbohydrates, 15 gm fat, 9 mg cholesterol, 4 gm saturated
fat, 232 mg sodium, 4 gm dietary fiber.
Zucchini Carpaccio
(4 servings)
This simple, elegant appetizer makes a terrific starter for anything from
a sit-down dinner to a backyard barbecue. Leaving the peel on the zucchini
adds a touch of color to the dish.
2 to 3 small zucchini (about 8 ounces total), scrubbed
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2-ounce chunk Parmesan cheese, preferably Parmigiano-Reggiano
Using a mandoline, food processor or very sharp knife, cut the zucchini
lengthwise into very thin slices. Arrange the slices, overlapping slightly,
on a platter; set aside.
In a small bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, oil and salt and pepper
to taste. Drizzle the vinaigrette over the zucchini. Using a vegetable
peeler, shave the cheese into think slices. Scatter the slices over the
zucchini. Serve immediately.
Per serving: 193 calories, 7 gm protein, 3 gm carbohydrates, 18 gm
fat, 11 mg cholesterol, 5 gm saturated fat, 324 mg sodium, 1 gm dietary
fiber.
Zucchini Bruschetta
(Makes 8 bruschetta)
The combination of herbs accents but does not overwhelm the mild flavor
of the zucchini.
4 to 6 small zucchini (about 1-1/2 pounds total), scrubbed
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil
1/2 tablespoon dried oregano
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
8 crostini (thinly sliced French or Italian bread, lightly toasted)
Preheat the oven to 4000 degrees. Cut the zucchini into 2 by 1/4-1/4-inch
sticks (about the size of French fries.
In a large skillet over medium heat, heat the oil. Add the zucchini and
cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 10 minutes.
Add the garlic, parsley, basil, oregano and salt and pepper to taste and
cook, stirring frequently, for 2 minutes. Remove from the head.
Place the bread on a baking sheet. Pile the zucchini onto the bread and
cover with 1 to 2 slices of cheese. Bake until the cheese melts, about
5 minutes. Serve immediately.
Per bruschetta: 110 calories, 3 gm protein, 15 gm carbohydrates, 4
gm fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 1 gm saturated fat, 190 mg sodium, 2 gm dietary
fiber.
Zucchini Tian
(6 servings)
A tian, typically a Provencal-style gratin of various vegetables, doubles
as a hearty side dish for grilled or roasted meats or as a light entrée
when served with rice or couscous.
4 tablespoons olive oil, plus additional for the baking dish
2 medium yellow onions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme, basil or oregano
3 medium zucchini, scrubbed and cut into 1/4-inch thick slices
3 medium tomatoes, thinly sliced
1/2 cup (about 2 ounces) grated Gruyere or Parmesan cheese preferably
Parmigiano-Reggiano
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Oil the bottom and sides of a 13-by-9-by
2-inch baking dish.
In a medium skillet over medium-low heat, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil.
Add the onions and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden,
about 12 minutes. Season the mixture with salt and pepper to taste.
Spread the onion mixture evenly in the prepared dish. Sprinkle with 1/2
of the herbs. Arrange alternating slices of zucchini and tomato, slightly
overlapping, on top of the herbs. Sprinkle with the remaining herbs and
salt and pepper to taste. Drizzle with the remaining 2 tablespoons oil.
Bake the tian until the zucchini is tender and the juices are sizzling,
40 to 45 minutes. Sprinkle with the cheese and bake for 5 minutes longer.
Remove from the heat; set aside to rest for 10 minutes. Serve warm.
Per serving: 151 calories, 6 gm protein, 11 gm carbohydrates, 10 gm
fat, 7 mg cholesterol, 3 gm saturated fat, 233 mg sodium, 3 gm dietary
fiber.
At a Southland Farmers' Market, you are assured that you
are purchasing quality produce from certified local growers
and producers. Southland Farmers' Market Association serves
member markets, local California farmers and consumers by
promoting and protecting the integrity of certified farmers'
markets in Southern California.
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Photos by David Karp
© 2002 Southland Farmers Markets Association
All Rights Reserved.
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